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Good food artfully prepared is philosophy of Lexington’s China Hy Express
by Betty Sayers, Pam Soreide, Phil Soreide
We may not be expert in Chinese cuisine, but in our travels we have learned that most of what passes for Chinese food in America wouldn’t actually be served in China. Ethnic Chinese who come to the U.S. — even those who may have been expert chefs at home — go to school to learn how to prepare sweet and sour chicken or sukiyaki or egg rolls for the American palate.
That’s really a shame, because Chinese cooking is one of the great cuisines of the world, an ancient tradition of vast subtleties, rituals, and poetic references. Cooking in China is high art and has been for millennia; here in America we usually get just the tiniest glimpse of the treasures it might hold.
The saddest consequence of sending Chinese cooks to American-Chinese cooking school is the inevitable sameness that results — it’s often hard to tell one Chinese restaurant from another. So when you come across one that seems a cut above the rest, you need to spread the word.
Hidden in Lexington
Who would imagine discovering a great Chinese restaurant in Lexington, a town known for an abundance of Mexican restaurants? As with many of our Rural Foodies destinations, we learned about the China Hy Express from one of our readers.
Michelle McCormick works in Lexington and told us she and her colleagues often choose the China Hy Express for lunch after a Friday business meeting because the food is excellent, the service is great and the price is right. Among many other interests, Michelle studies the design principles of feng shui, a philosophy where the arrangement of rooms and the items in them are made in relation to patterns of yin and yang and the flow of energy. Commenting on the feng shui of the China Hy Express, Michelle pointed out the firecracker strings hanging from the corner of the room, a rotund pig on the counter, goldfish printed on banners and two long mirrors hung on the walls. She explained that fire crackers ward off evil, a pig is a sign for prosperity, goldfish symbolize a long life, and mirrors expand chi (energy) and reflect good energy in the room.
You learn something every day.
Hot and sour hit
Mr. Lin Lam, who owns the restaurant with his wife, Phung Hua, greeted us at the door and led us to a table. We soon had drinks and menus and perused the lunch specials which this day featured fresh green beans prepared in a variety of sauces. Michelle recommended the Kung Pao Shrimp, and when Mr. Lam returns we order that, the Shrimp with Green Beans special, Broccoli Beef and Hunan Chicken. Rice, soup and an egg roll come with each lunch plate, so we order the Won Ton and Hot and Sour soups.
The Won Ton soup was delicious, with plentiful tender dumplings, but the Hot and Sour was pronounced a fabulous example of the genre, with a rich broth, flavorful spices and a hint of vinegar expertly melded together.
We told Mr. Lam who we were and asked if we could talk to him about his restaurant. Perhaps uncomfortable speaking in English, he said he would send his son out to talk to us.
The Lams’ story
Brian Lam, who looked to be in his early 20s, told us his parents had immigrated from China in the 1970s but that he and his siblings had been born in the U.S. Brian said his father had both owned and worked in Chinese restaurants in Seattle and Los Angeles, but dreamed of using his skills to move his family out of the city. When he had saved enough money, he contacted a broker in Denver who drove him to a number of Chinese restaurants in small towns. The one he chose was in Lexington, Nebraska.
“I remember when my dad came home and told us he had bought a restaurant,” Brian said. “He was so excited, but he couldn’t remember the name of the town. All he knew was it was ‘four hours from Denver.’”
Brian said the move had been a success for the family. In California, “Our neighborhood was dangerous, and our rent very high,” he said. “Here we live very well and feel satisfied with our business. We can make a good living.”
Our food arrives
When the food arrives we exclaim over the attractive appearance of each plate. A crisp egg-roll, a round serving of rice, and a fried wonton complement the main course. The food is steaming hot, fresh, and superbly seasoned. The mushrooms in the beef dish have been marinated in sherry. The Broccoli Beef has the texture and flavor of meat that has been cooked until its juices and the seasonings caramelize into a meaty, garlic flavored sauce. The green beans are beautifully stir-fried to just the perfect state of al dente and the sauce is delightful.
Since the service is quick, we aren’t rushed, and have time to enjoy our food over a busy noon hour at the restaurant. Brian offers us more hot tea and sodas and brings a plate of small artfully-carved oranges to our table. It’s the perfect aftermath to a spicy, rich Chinese meal — cool and sweet, and refreshing to the palate.
A tantalizing hint
When you count up our collective years on the planet, we’ve had a lot of Chinese food — at every place from shopping mall food courts to upscale and pricy big-city restaurants. While the food you’ll find at the China Hy Express is “American style”, we found it superior to most of the Chinese restaurants we’ve encountered. Nothing too exotic – compared to, say, the sea slug we tried once at a Chinese wedding feast in Gardena, CA – but fresh, well-prepared, plentiful and affordable.
The care with which food is prepared at the China Hy gives the diner a a tantalizing hint of what real Chinese cuisine might be like. Someday maybe we’ll experience that, too. But for now, we eat very well indeed.
Who to Contact
China Hy Express
413 N Washington
Lexington, NE 68850
308-324-5100Hours: 11 a.m. - 9:30 p.m., every day
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